The
islanders stood waiting on the dock, their ivory smiles gleaming in the morning
sunlight. Just behind them the mast of
their boat waved randomly in the tropical breezes, the sails not yet
raised. Their catamaran looked old and
experienced, its white hull wrinkled with cracking paint, but against the cerulean
blue waters it stood proud and inviting.
A couple of seabirds flashed by us, squawking an aviary welcome to the
sea. We would sail today.
My
family of four had planned this trip long ago and to give my parents a taste of
what our visits to this region were like, we had invited them to join us for a
few days. Thrilled to share this
experience with them but a little apprehensive about whether they could handle the
physical requirements of a sail and snorkel excursion, we had planned
ahead. For Christmas three months before
we had given Nana and Papa presents to help them appreciate the trip and to
prepare them for what was to come. A
couple of T-shirts, a bottle of rum, some sunglasses, a video, and a coffee
table book about the Caribbean would help, we thought; but the main gifts were
a complete snorkel set for each of them.
Fins, snorkel and mask would help them experience for their first time
what I had first seen when I was thirty-six years old and took my family on a
Bahamas excursion.
Each
of us had shouted with joy as we feasted our eyes on the peaceful underwater
world for the first time. The gentle
currents of the clear sapphire water massaged our warm skin while we drifted serenely
just below the surface, weightless in this aquatic jewel, like astronauts
floating in a foreign universe. We were
astounded by the unbelievable variety of colors. Fish darted among majestic stands
of radiant coral. Shades of red, orange
and yellow coral glistened against the sugar white sand, surrounded by azure
and cobalt water. “Look, Dad!” the kids
took turns mumbling, the snorkels in their little mouths muffling their
glee. We shared smiles and winks while
pointing at every new friend we met, each taking its turn to swim out from a
safe retreat and peek at us. “Welcome,
stranger! Where have you been? Come swim with us!” they seemed to say. Fearless, we had confidently followed them
where no man had gone before. Or at
least that’s how it felt.
Now
it was Nana and Papa’s turn. With their
gear in their bags and some trepidation in their hearts, they boarded the boat,
and our friendly crew set sail.
Reviewing our preparations as we neared our destination, my own anxiety
began to swell like the waves rolling past us.
Our crew didn’t speak English. My mom had never learned to swim. My dad was a cardiac patient. What had seemed like a good idea at the time
now felt like something our friends would be reading about in the newspaper
tomorrow. Headline: Tragedy Strikes American
Family In Islands!
Nana,
we learned, had prepared for this day by once taking her snorkel set to the
local YMCA where holding onto the edge of the pool she had put the snorkel on
and practiced breathing and kicking. Though none of us could say for sure we had
actually ever seen Nana put her face in the water in over three decades of
knowing her, this was a bit of reassurance. First rule of snorkeling: Be sure to breathe. Good. And
I reminded myself that saltwater is more buoyant so it is unlikely she would
sink.
As I
turned to Papa to help him with his gear, I discovered with horror that his
snorkel set was still in its original packing, its price tag dangling from it
like Minnie Pearl’s hat. Ignoring the second rule of snorkeling, which
is to always look cool, my dad, never the planner, began to break open his gift
from three months ago. Our crew babbled in
Creole fervently, their dark faces lighting up at the sight of red Christmas
ribbons, receipts, and a plastic WalMart bag strewn on the deck of their boat.
Exchanging
concerned glances with Toni, I took charge.
Assigning Toni to Nana, I volunteered to escort Papa. “Jenna and Will, you are on your own.” They nodded, relief spreading across their
faces as visions of being dragged into the abyss by their drowning grandparents
vanished. The natives anchored the boat
and whispering something about “current”, which in English means “current”, they
pointed in the direction of the reef.
Experienced snorkelers and strong swimmers, Jenna and Will leaped
in. “Dad, the current’s pretty strong
here.” Jenna reported as they briskly drifted past the anchor line and toward
the reef, then swimming back to us, drifted over the reef again, giggling and
making funny poses as they glided by.
Toni
and Nana entered next, using the ladder and without looking back began to
explore the world below. Nana’s severe splashing and excited voice echoed
across the Caribbean Sea as she discovered the beautiful world below us. “I see a fish!” “Way to go, Nana!” cheered the kids as they
coasted by in tandem again and again, satisfied that she could see what they
had been amazed by many years ago.
Papa’s
turn. As we struggled down the ladder I
tried not to notice our Creole crew now assuming positions at the edge of the
boat’s deck. Each held a large orange
lifesaver attached to a lifeline, while our captain clasped hands in prayer and
gazed up to heaven. “All hands on deck!”
I am sure I understood him command, as we slid into the water. I ignored the third rule of snorkeling, which
is to never touch anything, and put my hand on my dad’s wet butt. And pushed.
The
current immediately caught Dad’s billowing swimsuit and yellow lifejacket,
driving him away from the rest of our family members and while they floated in
peace and enjoyed each other’s accounts of what they had seen, I fought to push
him back toward them. His flailing arms
and legs helpless against the sea’s wind and waves, my dog-paddling dad fought
to work his never used fins and tried heroically to peer through his mask at
the reef below. “I can’t see anything”
he complained, lifting his head to look at me.
His new mask, slightly askew on his face, was half full of seawater. Or was it half empty? And it was completely fogged, but the price
tag was miraculously still attached.
Fixing his mask but now totally downstream, I abandoned all hope for him
seeing any fish, and began to propel my out of breath and distressed dad back
to the boat. Vigorously kicking with my
fins and both my hands now unabashedly on his butt, I managed to steer him back
to the ladder and up to the safety of the deck, to the applause and relief of
our chattering crew.
“Did
you see anything?“ I asked, exhausted.
“I
saw a bunch of fish!” Will interrupted.
“It was
beautiful! I saw schools of little fish!” Nana gasped proudly.
And
Papa answered, panting, like a fish out of water. “ I saw Jesus”.
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